Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White
by Rust-Oleum
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Our Price: $28.00 Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days Category: Tools See more product details |
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Tools and Hardware Reviews of Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White
Customer Review: pretty good stuff
Summary: 4 Stars
I have an ancient cast iron sink that has become porous, cracked and difficult to clean over the years. I don't have much money for remodelling, so I bought this stuff in bisque.
It has extensive instructions which involve scrubbing, sanding, and washing the porcelain with TSP. I followed the instructions to the letter except for removing the stainless drain connectors, which are stuck and I'm not strong enough to budge them even when I bought the right tool. So, I painted over them. The package declares that the epoxy surface is self-leveling, and it is so -- even with two coats using a soft lacquer brush the epoxy goes on a bit bubbly, but it becomes smooth and glossy as it dries.
This was three months ago. In the meantime, I resurfaced my counter, painted my cabinets, did other renovation work guaranteed to muck up a sink. I did in fact chip and scratch this epoxy surface, but here's the good news -- I bought another package of Rustoleum epoxy, mixed only four teaspoons worth, and patched the chips -- twice. The stuff keeps in sealed cans, so you have a long-term supply of small scratch repairs. The surrounding epoxy evidently "melts" to accept the patch. I gave the scratches two coats (dry sponging the surface to feather the edges a bit between coats) and you can't tell the scratch was ever there. Now that my construction is done, the sink holds up quite well to ordinary food preparation and dish washing without further mishap. It has not chipped or peeled over the porcelain, although it does give off a chemical odor for a couple of weeks if you fill the sink with hot water.
The surface is not as hard as the porcelain, of course, and you can't scour it. Nevertheless, it cleans pretty well with a soft scrubby and it looks nicer than the old sink.
I give it four instead of five stars because it is beginning to chip around the stainless pipe connection -- but I did violate the instructions by painting this over. And I score it down one star because the surface is a bit fragile and you have to treat it considerably more kindly than a porcelain or stainless sink. But the fact that you can patch scratches to the finish, evidently forever, makes this a cheap and durable fix that will last until I save up for a major kitchen remodel.
Customer Review: Pleasantly Surprised
Summary: 4 Stars
This product worked better than I expected! I'm in the middle of remodeling a mid-80's bathroom, including changing over all the beige/almond to white (toilet, vanity, tub/shower). Got an estimate to have someone paint my shower/tub combo for me for $585! I figured for $22 I'd give this product a shot.
I was pleasantly surprised with the finished product. If you look closely you can see run marks and some small pieces of roller, but you have to look real close. Also, it took me 4 coats to get a nice, consistent finish. I ended up buying 3 kits, but it was still far cheaper than paying to have someone else do it.
Here are a couple tips you might find handy:
-One kit doesn't quite do 2 full coats on a full shower/tub combo.
-Wait at least 2 hours between coats (not 1 hour like the box says). After just 1 hour, the first coat is still very tacky, so when you put a roller to it, it pulls chunks off the roller that you have to sand out and paint over later.
-If you're painting over an old color like I did, plan on 4 coats to get an even finish. If you're just restoring a tub that was already white, you may be able to get by with just 2 or 3 coats.
-Don't use the foam rollers as they break down quickly. I used the foam roller for the first couple coats and I'd go through about 3 rollers per coat. Home Depot has 1/4" nap shed-resistant 4" rollers that I found to work the best. Don't bother cleaning them, just change rollers between coats and throw them out.
-Let the roller do the work. Don't press on it at all. The paint has a very watery consistency and flows nicely if you just gently pass the roller.
-Spend the extra $20-30 and buy a respirator. I used the MSA Safety Works 817662 Paint and Pesticide Respirator that Amazon recommended and it worked well.
-Use a high-quality brush to get corners. If you try to squeeze a roller into corners, it'll come out uneven.
Just finished the 4th coat yesterday, so I don't know how durable it is. Sanding between coats took some elbow grease, so I'm optemistic that it'll hold up. I'll post again in a few months to update how it's holding up. It sure looks good, though! Happy painting!
Customer Review: Very pleased with results
Summary: 5 Stars
We have a 35 year old fiberglass shower pan which could not be adequately cleaned. No matter how hard we scrubbed, it always looked awful.
I searched for a very long time for a home kit that would not require the use of dangerous acid preparations. This was the only option I found. With two weeks having passed since I used the kit, the result looks great and I highly recommend it.
Expect several hours of surface prep involving an array of household cleaners, scrubbers etc. before you can do any painting. I suppose this is the price you pay to avoid the use of serious acids. When you do combine the two parts in the kit to create the paint, the resulting odor is seriously nasty like plastic cement. I did not use any kind of respirator; I just ran the bathroom fan. Unless you like to get very light headed, I suggest you buy or rent an appropriate respirator.
The paint is rather thin so apply in thin coats or else you will get drip build up on vertical surfaces. I didn't have much success with a roller so I used the bristle brush exclusively. It is true that once you apply the paint, don't try to rework any given area again if more than a minute or so has passed. And only brush in one direction. Follow the instructions for recoating. The second coat can be applied within the pot life of the paint (6 hours) but if you want a third coat--and it made ALL the difference in my case--you will either need a second kit or you must carefully set aside in sealed containers the proportional amount of each component to be mixed the next day.
The final coat must dry 72 hours before you can use any water on it.
Naturally, you will want to complement your work with all new caulking so be prepared to be an expert at that too.
In summary, I am delighted with the result but be prepared for some major scrubbing, some nasty fumes and a long patient wait while it dries.
UPDATE--Six months later, still flawless. Applied correctly, this produces a very durable finish.
Customer Review: Lessons Learned
Summary: 2 Stars
After reading some initial reviews and seeing that most were positive, I went and ordered the kit for my tub. After a lot of frustrating trial and error, I'm finally done and wanted to share some lessons learned.
- Do not use a conventional roller. The roller WILL leave fibers in your finish. I resorted to using a sander to smooth out the sags and fibers from the roller - it's like sanding chalk after it dries. Some have mentioned that foam rollers will dissolve in the paint. I used a 4" brush for the last 2 coats.
- A good respirator and active ventilation is mandatory. I used the MSA 817663 Multi-Purpose Respirator sold here - seals well and you can hardly smell the fumes.
- Get twice the paint you think you will need, if you have a dark colored tub. I was able to squeeze 3 coats out of 1 box to cover the inside and front side of my tub. My pink tub needed 3 coats to hide the original color, but I put 4 on for good measure.
- Don't forget to paint the farthest sections of the tub first. You don't want to lean over wet paint.
- Don't use a heavy hand on the second coat. I started my second coat about 2-3 hours after the first and noticed thin spots where the first coat started to dissolve.
- Finding the wet edge and spots you missed is really hard in an all white tub... I used a flashlight at a steep angle to differentiate these areas.
- Resist the urge to re-do sections that you just painted and have started to dry. The paint dries quickly and doing so will leave brush marks that won't go away. Self leveling is minimal.
- Don't re-use a mixing container that has dried paint in it. Dried paint will flake off and end up in your finish.
- Get some cardboard or dense foam to lay on the floor - your knees will thank you.
Incidentally, I would give the final finish a C for appearance. In hindsight, I should have opted to patch the large dings in the original porcelain and be done with it.
Customer Review: lots of patience
Summary: 5 Stars
It's not too hard, but it takes lots of time and patience. In addition to the recommended cleaning with bleach, Comet, and Lime-Away, I used a razor blade to scrape away old caulk, paint drips, and even stubborn soap scum. Then when I was roughing up the surface with 400 grit sandpaper I would find spots that I missed and had to re-scrape.
I liked the fact that this kit is much more simple than others on the market. There's two cans in the box; you stir them separately and then pour the smaller can's contents into the bigger can and stir it again. Much better than some of the other kits that require heating the cans or cooling them or whatever.
For painting itself, I used a small 6-inch roller with a smooth-surface cartridge. This worked well, except for the bottom corners of the tub. I used a 2-inch foam roller for the corners, but here's my advice on foam brushes: don't use them for too long with this paint! I tried to use a 6-inch roller made out of foam (advertised for super-smooth surfaces), but about 2 hours later, when I was finishing up, the foam started to disintegrate, leaving tiny little pieces of foam on the paint. So use foam only for the corners and do it at the end of the job.
I had a full fiberglass bathtub/shower combination (bathtub plus 3 shower walls), and one kit is not enough. One kit is enough for just a bathtub, or one kit is enough for a shower stall, but you'll need two kits for a combination tub/shower.
Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the results; the white paint covered up the almond-colored tub and shower quite well, even with the stains that were there from 30 years of neglect.